6:20pm - Valletta was brilliant, a very lovely city that is collectively a World Heritage Site (and rightly so!). I caught the #45 bus outside the hotel and was treated to a bone shaking trip that took about 50mins before we arrived at the gates to the ancient city. Maltese buses have high ceilings and powerful (AND LOUD) engines to get them up the insanely steep roads on parts of the island. Every bus also has some religious symbol in the window, fitting as the Maltese are some of the most pious people in the world.
A view from the top of the main gatehouse into Valletta of the terminal where buses to the city stop, and deposit visitors before the awesome fortified entrance!Valletta was built to commemorate the the victory of the Knights of St. John in 1565 over the massive Turkish army that had attacked their base on Malta. The Ottoman Empire wished Malta conquered, as from its massive harbours the Knights were able to very effectively raid and pillage Turkish shipping. Had Malta fallen, Italy would almost certainly have been conquered and Rome itself would have fallen to the forces of Islam. For over three months the Knights fought a truly desperate siege against a force that outnumbered them at least 4 to 1.
A view from the other side of the main gatehouse, looking down into Freedom Square. The main road through the centre of Valletta (Triq Ir-Repubblika) can be seen leading off from the back of the square.
The Triq Ir-Repubblika which leads from Freedom Square all the way through the centre of Valletta to Fort St. Elmo at the far end of the peninsular which the city is built on.First off I headed down the Triq Ir-Repubblika (Republic Street) and I visited the National Museum of Archeology which is housed in a former chapter house for the Knights. The entrance fee was 1Lm, and while the upstairs level was closed for refurbishment, I felt I got my money's worth from the exhibits on the ground floor. What I could view was fascinating, with items from many dig sites around the islands detailing the inhabitants in the Neolithic Age as well as some excellent models of the megalithic temple complexes that were built here at that time. Malta was home to the most advanced society of the Stone Age, and the islands have been occupied for more than 7000 years.
From there I made my way to the Grand Masters Palace and Armoury, but was dismayed to find that it was closed due to state business (it is also the Maltese House of Parliament). Deciding that the War Museum was a good next target, I set off through the very busy streets, stopping to buy a few gifts for family and friends. I think it was not long after that that a cannon went off. At least that is what it sounded like. I was maybe 100' from it when it went off, and I felt like I'd jumped out of my skin! The sudden near-deafening boom came from the next street over (Triq Il-Merkanti) where a very lively festival was taking place. Asking a shopkeeper I was told that it was a Saint's Day festival. Every five minutes for the next couple hours this BOOM went off, finally ending in a loud and furious salvo of a few dozen such explosions in quick succession. Needless to say the noise provided a suitable ambience while I browsed the exhibits in the War Museum, which detailed Malta's crucial role in World War 2.
A view from the Lower Barakka Gardens of the Siege Bell, a frankly huge bell that tolls once each day at noon as a reminder of the lives lost in World War 2. It was inaugurated in 1992 by Queen Elizabeth II.From there I took a walk alongside the Grand Harbour, taking in the Lower and Upper Barakka Gardens and getting a true sense of the awesome fortifications that the Knights surrounded their new capital in. As a point of reference, in harbour was a 110,000 tonne cruise liner which stuck something like 10-12 stories out of the water. As massive as it was, the wall it was moored near towered over it. I sure wouldn't have wanted to attack this place with muskets and ladders that's for sure!
I was again disappointed after lunch when I tried to visit the Lascaris War Rooms (where the WW2 Battle for North Africa and the Mediterranean was directed from. The Invasion of Sicily was planned here by none other than General Dwight Eisenhower himself) as they had shut at 12:30pm. I wandered for a while then, taking a couple photos from the top of the cities main gatehouse, and eventually finding my way to the Siege Experience a very interesting 3D tour through the Great Siege of 1565, with audio provided by a box & headphones that were worn as as you toured through the themed rooms, each room triggering a new audio track to play. From there I wandered a bit more, before heading back to the bus stop.
Once back in Mellieha, I got changed and headed to the pool for an hour to read and swim. I also spent a fair bit of time chatting with Rachel (and briefly Chris before he headed off for a massage), the couple from near Exeter whose names I finally got! As the pool slipped fully into the shade, I headed back to my room to relax, write this entry and get changed before heading out to find a place to have dinner.
12:00am - I had dinner at Les Jardins, yet another expense on my room bill, but I didn't fancy walking around to find a restaurant after all the walking I'd done earlier today. chatted to my mate Dan Shapter on MSN for a bit and had a few drinks at the Cocktail Lounge, but the self doubt that plagues me has finally caught up with me, and as a result of that I spent a fair bit of the night in a state of depression which is not unusual for me. Hopefully I'll feel more cheery in the morning.
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